Polignano by Night

A few days ago I posted pictures of the picturesque village of Polignano.  It lies just a short ten miles south of us and has captured my heart.  Good things have happened with every visit.

While we had Londoners, we made the trip at night.  Having noticed quite a few night lighting appliances along the cliff, we anticipated more good scenery.

Polignano hasn't disappointed us yet!
A stone walkway and steps lend a spectacular view of the bridge.

As we reach the bottom, the night time scenes to our left and right captivate us.

On the main street through Polignano, this duomo watches guard over the piazza.  We follow along parallel to the sea until we find an overlook.

From the overlook, we look down to see the window where we had just had dinner.  You will note that our table has already been filled - it's the best in the house, but too dark for pictures.

This is the restaurant that I noted before, called Fly.

Remember?  Domenico Modugno, Volaré?

We were delighted that it was open during the winter and everyone followed as I trotted straight for the door!

And just as delighted to meet the owner - Andrea, who attended law school but then decided that she'd rather work twice as hard for half the money in this little ristorante. During the summer they serve their rowdy, American guests until 4 am.
She spoke good English.  What a vivacious person.
We told her to surprise us with food and she did not let us down.

I love her logo and the color.  
And her!

Andrea graciously - and enthusiastically - gave us a tour.  Through the side door we came into a grotto area that the help uses for a break room.  And there is the blue locker.

Everyone smiled and enjoyed themselves.
The one on the right is a great dancer - she moved through the playing of Volaré with nimble steps.  I thought I had videoed it to share with you.
Alas, the red square means that it's stopped, not running.  Or vice versa.  I got lots of footage of the floor, ceiling and odd bits, but none of the fancy footwork.

Having a few grotti right out your back door provides great storage areas!

This was also the night that everyone shuddered as I walked into a dark alley feeling place because I saw interesting lights.
We hadn't anticipated meeting the reknowned artist,
Peppino Campanella.
But he's worth another blog.
Fascinating, cordial, open hearted - and talented.
And humble.  We only got his first name and a business card out of him.  It was pretty clear that this man was not just another starving artist as I admired his work.
I came home and googled him.  How right I was.
Definitely worth another visit and blog.

Did I say that Polignano never disappoints?!

Happy Birthday to Me!

As I sit here listening to Italian music, the sun rising over the Adriatic, a few fishermen heading out for a day's work, I ponder a birthday to remember.  Eight years ago it didn't look like birthdays were in my future.

My blessings include the advances of modern medicine.  'Procedures' replace surgeries, injections slow tumor growth.

And so I celebrated another memorable birthday.

The day began with a very special e-card card from my mother.

As long as we have a mother, we will always have a cheerleader in life!  I count her a great blessing.

She shakes her head at her eldest, a vagabond who rarely bothers to store away the suitcase.  

But it really is Mom's fault.  Though her favorite trek takes her as far as her garden, it was she who nurtured a love of reading and far away places.

The best celebrations in life center around the people we want in our lives.  2014 holds no exceptions.

But you're not here to read sappy words, are you?!  You want pictures to feed the wanderlust in you!

The journey to today's celebration started with the friend who delivered me to the aeroporto on a cold winter day in December.

Was that really just a month ago?

Because a few months earlier, I suggested to Laura that we meet in Italy while she spent four months in London.  We have never traveled together.  What a jolly good time we have had!

She was given a heart on her way to the airport.  Some wear their heart on their sleeve, some just hang it right out front.

Here's a lady who throws away clothes to make room in her bag for pasta, orchiette and fusilli, to be precise.  Who could deny her friendship?!

Friends made my birthday and her sendoff stupedous.

Marco and Cristiana did lunch.  Roberto sleeps in the background while his sister Aurora plays at his side.

The table covered by the cloth is that really cool table that you see in the video going around on Facebook in the 400 square foot apartment in New York City.

And that silver cylinder with the handle on the table is part of a Bimby - Thermofix in the States.  Have you seen one?  An amazing appliance that takes the place of 12 appliances!  She prepared the heart shaped bread loaf in it and a wonderful sorbetto made with two lemons picked from their tree.

Marco's parents live on the property. What a kind, hospitable couple.

And a couple of gentle hearted sisters standing in front of another lemon tree.  Nothing sour about these ladies - as you see by the sparkle in their eyes!

And so a new year begins with old and new friends.

Oh!  A sunset? Of course, the sun did set.

I Think That I Shall Never See...

I think that I shall never see,

A poem lovely as a tree.

          Robert Frost

I had the opportunity to walk through an olive grove yesterday. 

 The tree -  olivo

The fruit - oliva

The trunks amazed me.  No two resembled each other in any way.  I have no idea what shapes, twists, gnarls them.  

Each one teaches a lesson about life.  

Two of us go through the same experience and come out so differently.

The same sun radiates upon each of us, the same clouds dim the sun, the same teacher teaches twenty students in one classroom, the same parents provide nurturing and guidance in the same household.

The same boiling water hardens the egg

and softens the potato.

I marvel as I ponder over these old guards that have provided oil and fruit to generations.  These trees are the heart of all things Italian.

I'm not the only one fascinated with the gnarly beauty of the olivo.  This one stands beside a doorway in Ostuni.

The oliva are always brought to the table as soon as you are seated.  Mozzarella cheese, made with buffalo milk, is often tied in knots as you see here, and always served as a fresh cheese.

Rugged strength and fortitude are other characteristics that I appreciate about trees.  We've all seen pines growing through rock in our Rocky mountains.  Perseverance knows no national boundaries.





I noticed this interesting specimen in a piazza in Ostuni.

Of course one should never miss a sunset!
Especially on the Adriatica.

A Picture Book

Today we headed to the bottom of the heel of Italy. We took a sidetrip on the way and made it no further.

Ostuni, a town with huge Greek influence.

As we approached the city from across the valley, we had a glimpse of what lay ahead.

This castle doesn't even rate entry in the guide books.

We spent the afternoon walking the streets around the cattredale.

This is an overview picture that I found online.

We meandered through narrow streets with every turn bringing a new surprise, grand and small.
Yes, these really are residences, lived in by real people who manage new furniture and groceries into their lives.

And cars!

This is a succession of steps leading to homes.

Looking upward to one of the cupolas of the cathedral.

We wend our way through streets...

Yes, the arrow is a TRAFFIC sign.

NO, I did not drive these streets!

We know we're not lost when we realize we're now below that succession of steps that I pictured earlier.

Now to find the street leading to our car.

What a fascinating day.

People

I've often said that I have a lot of friends that I haven't met yet.  This blog is about some of those people.  Some of you know them as well.  Those of you that don't won't care much about this blog!

Today was Sunday dinner at Nicola and Mariella's house where we go for Sunday morning.  Nicola had a birthday this week.  His daughter and her friend, Liliana and Cristiano, Anna Maria Grassi, and their son, wife and children Marco and Cristina, Aurora and Roberto made up the party.

The birthday boy.





There are no secrets in the world of Facebook so I got to be included in the celebration.  Liliana made Papa a heart shape tart and a big round one for me!  But I did have to share...  Fruit tart with real custard is my favorite French dessert.  This one was a 10 on all counts.  Mmmmm.

           Bellissimo!

And Cristina made the most wonderful granita that she knows I love.  It's coffee melded with orange and cinnamon.  She makes it herself and gave me a big fat dollop of whipped cream on top.






One day last week we were honored with a visit from the Grassi sisters, Anna Maria and Concentina.  We took them back to their little abode in Bari and they served us coffee and cookies there.  Sharon, visiting from London, shared the day with us.

You just have to appreciate a clear picture of a squid.  Picture a very large goose egg with tentacles.  









This is the lady who cooks Wednesday lunch.  Anna Marie and Concentina are there so they interpret.  What a cook she is!  Mafalda isn't young but she acts like she is.

I love the planter in her yard!











We've had some company from London, friends of Laura's but I'm now claiming them as well.  Sharon came last week.  You see her in the restaurant picture above.

The previous week, Donna and Jonelle came.  There have been a few late nights of chatting...  British, Australian and Yankee accents blending in laughter.

Here the London residents create a tasty lunch after visiting the local shops.  Veggies, pasta, cheeses, focaccia, proscuito - all local and fresh.  

Followed with coffee on our upper floor terrace.

Just a couple more...

Laura's made a valiant effort to appreciate the local frutti de mare while she's here.  This octopus, larger than her hand, and fish head, kind of took her over the edge. I nearly gagged at the under sides when she picked them up.  I think she's had the last of some of these creators so you likely won't see more of them.  I consider it all akin to Rocky Mountain oysters.

The stupendous ceiling in the restaurant, in old town Monopoli, where we kind of parked in the middle of the street.  But others came along and really did park in the middle of the street.  When in Rome, you just do what you have to do.